By Margaret Saunders

Tucked away behind a welcoming glass storefront on a tree-lined stretch of San Francisco’s Townsend Street, D’Urso Italian Delicatessen is a modern take on the classic Italian deli. The look is clean and contemporary, but the friendly vibe inside — not to mention the menu of high quality meats, cheeses, and specialty items — is classic, old-world Italy.

The owner, Joe D’Urso, grew up in the Bronx, the son of hardworking Italian immigrants. As an outgoing kid working behind the counter in his father’s italian restaurant (“Papa Joe’s”), little Joe learned the tools of the trade before setting out on his own to start a career in finance. He eventually relocated to California, but after 15 years in the financial industry, Joe decided it was time to return to his Italian roots. Luckily for us, this didn’t require moving back east. Leaving behind the banking world (but not the west coast), Joe spent most of 2009 planning and preparing for what would soon become San Francisco’s best new neighborhood deli. These days, you’ll find Joe D’Urso behind the deli counter once again, happily welcoming walk-ins, and making sure everyone feels right at home. Along with his tight-knit team of deli workers, Joe’s on a first-name basis with many of the regular customers; the whole operation has an authentic, family-run feel.

It’s clear that the former finance executive has put his whole heart into this latest venture, and it’s an investment that seems to have paid off. Open only since August, this Italian delicatessen has become a San Francisco favorite, drawing a large and loyal crowd of hungry office workers, friendly neighbors, and enthusiastic foodies who return here daily to savor one (or more!) of D’Urso’s classic creations.

If you go, be sure to try one of the delectable grilled panini: the famous D’Urso Rueben is becoming the stuff of local legend. If you happen to visit on one of those wet or windy days (the kind for which San Francisco ‘summers’ are so well-known), the generous “Mama Mia” combo, a perfectly grilled cheese-and-tomato sandwich plus a steaming cup of Tuscan tomato soup, is sure to warm you up. If sandwiches aren’t your bag, D’Urso also offers several incredible made-to-order green salads. In addition, the large deli case is always filled with ready-to-eat homemade Italian specialties, like tangy antipasto, fresh beet salad, marinated long-stemmed artichokes, and zesty meatballs.

The D’Urso staff is friendly and fast no matter what time of day you visit, but come before noon or in the late afternoon if you want to avoid a modest lunchtime rush hour. But frankly, you’ll probably agree that food this good is worth waiting for.

D’Urso Italian Delicatessen
236 Townsend Street, SF CA
415-369-9442
www.dursodeli.com